6 common hair-washing mistakes that could be making your hair look thinner
A dermatologist, a trichologist and a cosmetic chemist reveal the wash-day mistakes weighing down your hair — and how to fix them by your next shower.
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Washing your hair seems simple — lather, rinse, repeat, done! — but a few common mistakes can leave your locks looking limp or cause breakage that can look an awful lot like thinning or hair loss , says Dr. Efe Kakpovbia , a board-certified dermatologist and Skin of Color Society fellow.
Before reaching for hair supplements or hair growth products , consider what you use in the shower — and how you use it. Some changes can pay off as soon as your next wash. In fact, improving volume "is often less about adding something and more about removing what's weighing hair down," says cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos .
🚩 Mistake no. 1: Going too long between washes
Washing less often isn't always better for your hair. Under-washing is common among people who say their hair looks flat or thin , says Ashley Zsaton , a board-certified nurse practitioner and trichologist. "I often see people under-washing to protect their hair, but this can lead to oily roots and hair full of buildup, so it sort of clumps together and feels lifeless."
How often you should shampoo depends on "each person's hair, scalp and oil production type," Zsaton adds. She recommends using these ranges as a starting point:
Very fine or straight hair; an oily scalp; postpartum, when oil production climbs; heavy daily sweating
Many hair types, including color-treated hair
Curly hair; a dry or mature scalp, including during perimenopause
Coily, tightly textured hair , which is especially fragile and dries out when product builds up
Avoid stretching the time between washes too far. "Waiting three to four weeks between washes can lead to scalp buildup, seborrheic dermatitis — an inflammatory condition associated with an overgrowth of yeast — and significant scalp irritation," Kakpovbia says. "Hair breakage and increased shedding can also occur."
Flakes may also indicate that you aren't shampooing often enough or that your conditioner, hair oil or scalp moisturizer isn't right for your hair type, according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD).
🚩 Mistake no. 2: Putting conditioner on your roots
Conditioner moisturizes, detangles and makes hair easier to manage, but where you apply it matters. It's "designed for the mid-lengths and ends where damage is greatest — not the scalp," says Dobos. Applying it to the roots "can weigh fine or straight hair down," Zsaton says.
For most hair types, Zsaton recommends that you "apply conditioner mid-strand down." She explains, "Ends are the oldest and most porous part of the hair shaft, and that's what you want to treat with conditioner." The possible exception: The AAD recommends applying conditioner to the full length of dry or curly hair.
The difference may be noticeable right away: "Usually at the next wash, hair is lighter, less weighed down at the root," Zsaton says.
🚩 Mistake no 3: Using too much conditioner
Amount matters as much as placement. "More conditioner doesn't necessarily mean better results," Kakpovbia says. Using too much can leave very fine hair "coated, heavier and flatter," Dobos adds. If your hair feels weighed down once it dries, scale back. "For most people, one to two tablespoons of conditioner is likely sufficient, depending on hair length and density," Kakpovbia says.
But don't skip conditioner altogether: The AAD recommends using it after every shampoo . If you have fine hair, choose a lightweight formula designed for your hair type and avoid products labeled " intensive conditioner ," which may weigh it down.
🚩 Mistake no. 4: Cutting your rinse short
Under-rinsing can leave you with "lifeless, dull strands," Zsaton says. While "many modern conditioners are designed to leave some materials [like polymers and silicones] behind," Dobos explains, excess residue can weigh hair down. The trick to a good rinse is using your fingers to gently work the water through your hair. For thick, curly hair, the AAD recommends using a wide-tooth comb before rinsing out conditioner to avoid damage.
Just don't be too quick to rinse: Medicated shampoos need time to work. For example, Kakpovbia recommends leaving anti-dandruff shampoo on for three to five minutes; while it sits, "gently massaging the scalp can also help loosen buildup and flakes." Follow the label's directions for how long to leave on conditioner too.
Selsun Blue Moisturizing Antidandruff Shampoo
🚩 Mistake no. 5: Layering on too many products
Sometimes flat hair isn't caused by a single product, but by the combined effect of several. "Using too many products can sabotage volume," Dobos says. "The cumulative effect of shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioners , anti-frizz products , oils and styling creams can really weigh hair down." And, by the way, two-in-one products and conditioning shampoos can add to that buildup, since they deposit conditioning ingredients to make hair smoother and easier to detangle, making fine hair "feel coated, heavier, and flatter," Dobos adds.
Start by scaling back your routine. To clear existing residue, Dobos recommends a clarifying shampoo, which works by "removing product buildup and sebum that can weigh hair down between stylings." Zsaton suggests using one weekly until the buildup clears, then once or twice a month . You'll know it's working when your roots "stay lifted longer and [don't] immediately fall flat," she says.
Just avoid overusing clarifying shampoo, which "can leave hair feeling rough, dry or more difficult to comb," Dobos says. "If you feel like you need it at every wash, see a specialist because you may have a scalp condition that requires intervention," Zsaton adds.
During Yahoo testing, these clarifying shampoos came out on top.
🚩 Mistake no. 6: Expecting "volumizing" products to do all the work
Volumizing shampoo can help, but it can't compensate for the habits above. These formulas typically contain fewer heavy conditioning agents than repair shampoos, while their polymers, proteins and starch powders "work by temporarily coating, plumping or texturizing individual strands to lift them away from the scalp," Dobos says.
The key word is temporarily . "No shampoo permanently thickens hair, " Dobos says. "The effect is cosmetic and fleeting rather than biological."
The AAD says there's "no single ingredient" that makes one volumizing shampoo or fine-hair conditioner better than another, so finding the right formula "is really a matter of trial and error." To narrow it down, Yahoo's beauty team tested popular options and found the best shampoos and conditioners to give fine, flat hair body without weighing it down.
Monday Haircare Volume Shampoo + Conditioner Set
R+Co Dallas Biotin Thickening Shampoo + Conditioner Kit
If you wash according to your hair type, keep conditioner off your scalp, rinse thoroughly and scale back your product routine, you may notice lighter, more lifted roots by your next wash — though stubborn buildup can take longer to clear.
Just be aware that better wash habits have their limits. "It affects scalp and hair but does nothing to change the follicle itself," Zsaton says. "If a few weeks of better habits change nothing, something deeper may be at play."
Breakage and hair loss may be the culprits, but that can be difficult to determine on your own. Kakpovbia recommends seeing a board-certified dermatologist for a scalp check. "The sooner we identify and address the underlying cause," she says, "the better the chance of preserving and potentially restoring hair density."
Efe Kakpovbia , MD, board-certified dermatologist at NYU Langone Dermatologic Associates and fellow of the Skin of Color Society
Kelly Dobos , MSc, cosmetic chemist and instructor at the University of Cincinnati
Ashley Zsaton , DNP, board-certified nurse practitioner, trichologist and co-founder of Hollywood Hair Institute
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