Can your skin-care routine actually prevent wrinkles? Dermatologists weigh in

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Wrinkles are coming for us all. And that's not a threat; it's simple biology. As we age, collagen breaks down, skin loses elasticity and nothing we do can rewrite our DNA — or destiny, for that matter. How does that old saying go? The only thing certain in life is wrinkles and taxes, right? (Something like that!)

Still, we don't have to lie back and let life (and the sun) ravage our skin. Sure, there's always Botox and laser treatments, but the right skin care can do a surprising amount. "It is important to remind people that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and it is always better to prevent the lines and sun damage rather than treat it after the fact," explains Dr. Marisa Garshick , a board-certified dermatologist and clinical assistant professor of dermatology at New York Presbyterian-Weill Cornell Medicine. "For someone using sunscreen with a retinoid routinely, they can expect to have less sun spots, less wrinkles and overall healthier-appearing skin as compared to if they did nothing."

The big questions: Which parts of the aging process are actually within your control, and which skin-care ingredients are worth your money? We asked board-certified dermatologists like Garshick to sort it out.

What skin care can (and can't) do for wrinkles

First things first: No cream, serum or elaborate 12-step routine will stop wrinkles from happening. According to Dr. Kseniya Kobets , a board-certified dermatologist based near NYC, signs of aging stem from different sources. "We have intrinsic factors we can't completely control — like genetics, natural aging and metabolic inflammation — and external factors like UV exposure, lifestyle, smoking, diet and exercise," says Kobets. "Skin care is only one piece of that puzzle, but it is an important one."

Garshick puts it just as plainly: "A skin-care routine cannot completely eliminate the potential for lines and wrinkles, given they are also a result of natural aging and genetics," she says. However, it doesn't mean that skin care doesn't help at all. Kobets says a solid routine can help protect existing collagen, support new collagen and slow some visible signs of aging. Garshick agrees, saying that it can "reduce the severity of fine lines and wrinkles over time."

The catch, of course, is that you must be consistent — and have patience. As Garshick explains, skin care can be thought of as an investment in your skin's future. "You may not see a dramatic difference overnight, but staying consistent can lead to benefits in the long term," she explains.

And even though it's never too early to get into skin care (and we're talking an SPF , not retinoids for third-graders), the good news is, it's also never too late to start. Even in your 60s or 70s, you can still protect the collagen and skin you have from additional damage, says Kobets. It's all about using the right stuff.

The best ingredients for preventing wrinkles

Ever wondered what those fancy terms on skin-care labels really mean? Here's what to look for when battling fine lines is your No. 1 priority, from the stuff you know (SPFs) to the stuff you may not (AHAs, PHAs and peptides).

Both derms lead with an all-important SPF. "Sunscreen is considered the No. 1 anti-aging product because it works to prevent signs of skin aging that are associated with cumulative UV exposure, including brown spots, fine lines, wrinkles and skin laxity," says Garshick. Kobets agrees, saying, "If I had to pick one thing, it is still daily sunscreen." She recommends broad-spectrum SPF 30 to 50 and favors mineral sunscreens for sensitive skin and tinted mineral sunscreens for anyone prone to melasma and hyperpigmentation.

Retinoids are next on our experts' lists. "Retinoids remain at the top because we have decades of evidence for improving fine lines, pigmentation and collagen remodeling," says Kobets. While she considers prescription tretinoin "the OG of topical anti-aging," she points out that it's not for everyone. "I recommend over-the-counter retinol and retinal frequently because they can be much easier to tolerate," she says. "The retinoid you actually use consistently is more valuable than the tretinoin sitting in your medicine cabinet because it makes you peel."

Both derms say that other active ingredients, such as vitamin C and acids, are effective but can't replace retinoids. But if your skin is too sensitive for one, using an antioxidant and peptides may be a helpful alternative, Garshick says. "For someone who can tolerate a retinoid, antioxidants and peptides can be used in addition and should be thought of as more complementary rather than a true replacement," she adds. "Antioxidants like vitamin C help neutralize free radical damage generated by environmental stressors, while also supporting collagen and helping address uneven skin tone."

When it comes to AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and PHAs (polyhydroxy acids), Kobets says they can "improve dullness, texture and fine lines through exfoliation," and by removing some superficial dead skin cells, they can also help other active ingredients penetrate better. "But exfoliation alone isn't really addressing all of the biology of skin aging," she says.

As for peptides, Garshick points out that different peptides can have different functions, including support for the skin's structure and signaling processes.

"Retinoids, vitamin C, antioxidants and peptides are some of my favorites, but don't underestimate the basics like humectants and barrier-supporting ingredients," says Kobets. She adds that hyaluronic acid, glycerin and ceramides "may not sound as exciting, but hydrated skin looks more plump immediately, and healthy skin is better able to tolerate your higher-impact actives."

The map to a good wrinkle-prevention routine is pretty simple, according to both derms. "It is best to think about these ingredients as a team rather than choosing just one — sunscreen for UV protection, an antioxidant such as vitamin C in the morning and a retinoid and/or peptide at night when appropriate," says Garshick.

Don't overlook affordable moisturizers or sunscreen, Kobets cautions. An affordable brand like CeraVe can "form the backbone of an excellent routine, and you can supplement with the luxury products you love," she says. This moisturizer supports the skin barrier with a powerful trio of ceramides, hyaluronic acid and peptides.

Kobets is a fan of multitasking formulations because "most people don't need six different serums." She says this one is a good example because it combines L-ascorbic acid with peptides and PHA for gentle exfoliation. "You are getting several complementary ingredients in one formulation," she adds.

Medicube products are an affordable way to "to experiment with different formulations and potentially target texture, pigmentation, hydration and overall skin quality," Kobets says. This serum is formulated with PDRN, panthenol, centella asiatica extract and niacinamide to soothe and hydrate the skin while protecting it from the sun. (Another good SPF option from Medicube is No Cast Just Glow , which was No. 1 on our list of the best Korean sunscreens. )

For anyone who is sensitive to retinoids, Garshick says it can help to find an over-the-counter option that also incorporates nourishing ingredients, such as this RoC cream (also a Bethenny Frankel favorite). Along with retinol, it contains glycolic acid, shea butter, squalane and a mineral complex to keep skin firm, smooth and hydrated.

This new serum from Byoma contains a blend of peptides, including the very impressive GHK-Cu , to diffuse existing wrinkles and slow down new ones. It also has vegan PDRN and NMN (a precursor to to NAD+), to support the skin barrier while targeting eight visible signs of aging, including firmness, wrinkle depth, elasticity and hydration.

Another K-beauty option, this face cream is made with PDRN for targeted skin repair sans irritation. Niacinamide, panthenol and hyaluronic acid round it out to soothe skin, reduce redness and support the skin barrier.

Although retinoids are still considered the gold standard topical ingredient for addressing visible signs of aging, many other ingredients can complement a retinoid-based routine, says Garshick. This includes products like this No7 serum, which incorporates glaciology, the brand's peptide and antioxidant blend, along with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, "which can be used by all skin types and helps to reduce visible skin-aging concerns," she says.

This lightweight moisturizer from Avène is a favorite of Kobets as an over-the-counter retinoid or complementary treatment to prescription tretinoin. It's formulated with 0.05% retinaldehyde to reduce the look of wrinkles and renew and brighten skin with minimal or no irritation.

Another "complementary" suggestion from Garshick is this serum from RescueMD. "Its formula is designed to support the skin's repair processes while also providing hydration and antioxidant support," she says, adding that it "incorporates ingredients like lapachol to help support the skin's natural repair processes and peptides to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles."