Not gold, but golden: Brass has its own kind of bling this Dhanteras

As consumers look beyond precious metals, brass jewellery is finding fresh favour this festive season, offering a combination of affordability and distinctive design. From sculptural statement pieces to heritage-inspired motifs, designers are reimagining brass as more than just budget-friendly jewellery. Its versatility, craftsmanship and ability to complement both Indian and contemporary outfits are giving the metal renewed fashion appeal. While some see it as an accessible alternative to gold and silver, others believe brass has an aesthetic identity that stands independently of precious metals.A medium for creative expressionFor Parna Banerjee of Vedaa, brass is as much about creative freedom as affordability. Its structural strength allows designers to experiment with oversized accessories, bold silhouettes and sculptural forms without the cost constraints associated with precious metals. “Brass is no longer just an affordable alternative; it is becoming a powerful medium of artistic expression, where fashion, sculpture and individuality come together,” she says. Bappaditya Biswas of Byloom shares this emphasis on the metal's design potential, although he is quick to distinguish its appeal from its price point. “I make brass jewellery not because it is cheap, but because I like the matte shine and its earthy golden glow, which goes with the textures that I work with,” he says. Rather than following trends, Bappaditya designs according to his own sensibility, using quirky elements that work particularly well with the metal. For Aditi Chakraborty of Anki Bunki Aditi, too, brass can hold its own as a sophisticated fashion choice. Pearls, semi-precious stones and gemstones can add richness to its adaptable forms, while thoughtful craftsmanship can make it suitable for both traditional and contemporary designs. “Affordability should never be mistaken for a lack of sophistication,” she says, adding that luxury is not necessarily defined by the price of a metal, but by creativity, craftsmanship and design.Heritage with a modern vocabularyThe growing interest in brass is also being driven by consumers looking for jewellery that carries a story. Monalisha Manna of Earthaments draws from cultural influences for collections such as her Jamdani-inspired range and Indian Summer, which features motifs inspired by jasmine, amaltas and mangoes. “What's trending, I'd say, isn't a particular metal but a particular sensibility: narrative, motif-led design that carries a story,” she says. She believes younger buyers increasingly seek pieces that reflect their cultural roots while fitting into a global fashion vocabulary. Karima Dawoodani of Soulworks has also noticed a growing appreciation for symbolic jewellery, with motifs such as hamsas, Ganeshas, trishuls and lotuses featuring prominently in the brand's collections. The lotus is among its fastest-selling designs, while an entire collection is dedicated to trishul jewellery. Karima believes changing consumer perceptions, aided by technological advancements such as anti-tarnish treatments and improved gold plating, have helped brass move beyond its earlier association with imitation or junk jewellery. Interestingly, Soulworks' core audience is between 30 and 55 years, a demographic that would traditionally gravitate towards gold. The brand has recorded a repeat purchase rate of around 30%, suggesting that consumers are increasingly viewing brass as a long-term jewellery choice. “People are not looking at brass as a trend-driven, one-time purchase but as jewellery they can return to and wear for years,” she says. While Bappaditya cautions against comparing brass jewellery directly with gold and silver, particularly during Dhanteras, given that it has no resale value, he points out that its appeal lies in its distinct aesthetic rather than its ability to replace precious metals. He also draws a distinction between jewellery and kassa and pital utensils, which retain resale value.Beyond conventional accessorisingAnother significant shift is the growing demand for versatile jewellery that goes beyond conventional earrings and necklaces. Parna sees younger consumers gravitating towards distinctive pieces such as ear cuffs, statement earrings and experimental headgear, while Aditi believes brass can transition effortlessly between a traditional sari and contemporary outfits such as dresses, blazers and jeans. “Versatility is no longer a bonus; it's an expectation,” says Monalisha, pointing to the demand for jewellery that can move between occasions and different styles of dressing. At Soulworks, this shift has translated into an expansion into unconventional accessories. Having introduced hair buns and hair cages in 2023, the brand continues to see interest in hair sticks, combs and other hair ornaments, often featuring motifs such as dragonflies. Brooch pins are another strong category, while the brand is working on sunglasses accessories, including chains and decorative clip-ons. Karima believes jewellery is increasingly becoming a medium of personal storytelling, with consumers using accessories across their hair, bags, collars and sunglasses to communicate their individuality, aspirations and beliefs. Bappaditya, meanwhile, sees the lightness of brass as an advantage when experimenting with modern shapes and textures. For him, the metal's fashion appeal cannot be measured by its price or by rising precious metal rates. “Fashion statement doesn't come with a price tag,” he says.Brass styles to look out forStatement earrings: Oversized hoops, bold danglers and geometric designs.Dokra and tribal motifs: Traditional craftsmanship reinterpreted in contemporary forms.Haslis and chokers: Rigid neckpieces, minimalist chokers and layered chains.Fusion pieces: Brass combined with pearls, semi-precious stones, wood and ceramic.Statement cuffs: Hammered textures, irregular shapes and antique finishes.Experimental accessories: Ear cuffs, brooches, sculptural rings, hair accessories and statement buttons.We have recorded a repeat purchase rate of around 30%, which tells us that people are not looking at brass as a trend-driven, one-time purchase but as jewellery they can return to and wear for yearsI make brass jewellery not because it is cheap, but because I like the matte shine and its earthy golden glow, which goes with the textures that I work withAffordability should not be mistaken for a lack of sophistication. The value lies in craftsmanship and thoughtful designGet the latest Bollywood & Entertainment News, and more. Download the TOI app.Give your child the gift of confidence! Claim your exclusive TOI Masterclass spot today!